I guess when I moved to Jackson Hole over 15 years ago, I thought the “only” skiing was downhill skiing, and that the other type of skiing was for old people. After all, cross-country skiing predated alpine skiing by about 4,000 years. In my eyes, there was no benefit to cross-country skiing. Quite frankly, when I saw Nordic skiers around the valley, they moved at the pace of a gray haired snail. No thanks!
Until….one day. In the words of Gru from Despicable Me, “LIGHTBULB!” All of this time, I had been trudging through massive amounts of snow, soaking my winter boots to the core, and only making it about 25 yards when I could have been gracefully (and more importantly, quickly) gliding around on skis. So, that winter I decided I was going to try Nordic skiing, and I went out to buy my first pair of cross-country skis. Keep in mind, the only Nordic skiing I had done was on the 90’s most famous calorie burner, the NordicTrack. When I visited Skinny Skis, Jackson’s local house of Nordic gurus, I was like a deer in headlights. However, their experts convinced me that the newer, wider backcountry cross-country ski was the way to go. A wider ski was developed for breaking trail on ungroomed snow. I didn’t care about that, but I was thrilled about the fact that I wouldn’t have to balance my weight and maintain an upright position on a pair of toothpicks. And so, my love for cross-country skiing began.
As an official cross-country skier, I explored the entire Jackson Hole area and discovered so many new trails and routes. I found the downhill to be most exhilarating although I had my fair share of yard sales – a term used to describe losing your gear in a crash. As I skied on groomed trails, I noticed sleek, swift skiers flying past me on what looked like narrow cross-country skis, but their form was completely new to me. What they were doing looked exciting and fast. I did my research only to find this was a quickly growing sport called skate skiing. Cross-country skiing is essentially the gateway activity to skate skiing. I was in! I bought my first pair of skate skis after renting only once. Skate skiing was intense and allowed me to eat more as the fat on my body melted away. Sign me up. The greatest benefit of skate skiing is that you can quickly cover a lot more ground than you can on classic (cross-country) skis. However, the downside is that you have to find groomed tracks unless you’re hardcore. Skate skiing opened eyes to a whole new world in Jackson Hole.
Jackson Hole offers so many fabulous options for both classic and skate skiing. My first and most favorite adventures have been in Grand Teton National Park. The scenery is pristine and the views are out of this world. The whole experience fills up my soul. If you’re looking for an outing where you are surrounded by the beauty of nature, Grand Teton National Park is your place. The skiing options are endless. From parking lot at the Bradley and Taggart trailhead, you can strap on skis and get outside. Fun, semi-challenging cross-country ski excursions include gliding around the Bradley-Taggart loop or touring through the snow-covered forest to Jenny Lake. Both of these routes offer undulating terrain with an “off piste” experience not to be missed. But, don’t forget to pack a lunch. The workout equivalent to the NordicTrack times four and you’ll definitely want to nosh on something under the Tetons. Bring your camera, too. These views need to be documented.
Over the past few years, Grand Teton National Park has groomed the snow covering the main road through the park. Here, you can easily classic ski in the machine made tracks to Jenny Lake, or you can skate smoothly toward Signal Mountain. This track is fabulous for the novice. It is relatively flat with a few curves and always excellently groomed. The surroundings are like those from a fairytale. Perfect.
If you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, try heading through Kelly toward Antelope Flats Road. Instead of turning left on this road, you will drive straight and the road ends in a parking lot. From there, you are able to enjoy the more groomed Nordic trails in the eastern portion of Grand Teton National Park. This trail is for the beginner unless you decide to venture up the hill toward Shadow Mountain. Shadow Mountain is a mountain, after all, so the uphill is grueling, but the downhill is sweet. On both of these groomed trails in the park, dogs are allowed on leashes. I have harnessed mine and let them pull me up the hill toward Shadow.
The Moose-Wilson Road, accessed through Teton Village, is also a wonderful classic ski outing in Grand Teton Park. Park your car at Granite Canyon trailhead and choose your path: head to the west toward Granite Canyon or follow the snow-covered road north toward Death Canyon. It is always an option to break your own trail and head east toward the Snake River. The river levy is a delightful place to ski where you can enjoy views of the Sleeping Indian.
There are two great phenomenons to enjoy in Grand Teton National Park: crust cruising in the springtime and full moon skiing (get your head out of the gutter) in the winter. Spring days are warm and the nights are cold. Snow begins to melt creating a wet layer on top that freezes at night making the layer hard and glassy. If you get out of bed early enough to enjoy this rarity, it can be a cardiovascular push and spiritual awakening. It’s best for skate skier, but classic skiers can enjoy cruising, too. The frozen flats and open spaces are the best places to ski, but you can go just about anywhere in the park. The second most awesome thing to do in Grand Teton National Park is Nordic ski when a full and bright moon lights the way. There are only a few occurrences during the winter, so don’t miss out. Remember to take your headlamp. The nights are bright, but there are still obstacles along the way that might not be very visible at night. Moonlight skiing is ideal for a romantic adventure with your honey, so pack a bottle some snacks and a bottle of vino. Two thumbs up.
There are so are many other great Nordic options in Grand Teton National Park. You can not find a more beautiful spot to perfect your glide or just learn the sport.